And together with this velvety scent, we reach and transcend all the boundaries of this world.
LEARN CREATE INSPIRE
This week's Friday Spotlight Feature is NPA Qualified &
Professional Natural Perfumer
Martina Vatovec
Bio
Martina Vatovec, boutique perfumer with avant-garde concepts from Koper, Slovenia. Martina is a woman who lives in close contact with nature. She draws inspiration for life from nature, and nature’s colors and essences can be felt in her perfumes. After a sweet confectionery career, she found herself in the world of fragrances. She likes to use familiar scents that connect us with life experiences and the beauty of nature.
She seeks inspiration in minimally processed materials, small and sustainable production and the alchemical creation of perfumes.
She transmits positive feelings into the scents themselves and is happy to share the emotions she first experienced when I ventured into the world of creating botanical perfumes.
Martina’s perfumes are thoughtfully made from quality natural materials. Natural plant materials are carefully and ethically obtained and then selected and blended into noble balanced blends.
“At first I studied aromatherapy, then I found natural perfumery and I simply fell in love with it. I studied in Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, France, Israel and now with NPA. I have to say that I love The Natural Perfume Academy. You can work on your own time, not pressure, but a lot of inspiration.
Thank you for giving me the kick I needed to put my perfumes out in the world.”
Creations
MARTINA Botanical Perfumes comprises three 'aromatherapeutic' perfumes, which, in addition to smelling nice, also affect the emotions and create harmony of body and mind. With the right choice of essential oils we can find the way to well-being. Smell reaches the subconscious and affects emotions. Because the path from smell perception (nasal cavity) to the brain, where we process smell, is so short that we may not be able to control what is happening with our thoughts.
I SPREAD... JOY brings joy, concentration, tenderness and playfulness. Mandarin, sweet and bitter orange are the top notes of the perfume that evoke inner peace and serenity.
I FEEL… WOMAN is a perfume that emphasizes femininity. A floral perfume with the scent of roses, geraniums, rosewood and sandalwood will wrap women in charming and seductive fragrances and accentuate their elegance.
I LOVE... MYSELF brings the message that everything comes from love. What is so important are the feelings of love that we cultivate towards ourselves. If we love ourselves, we can love the whole world. Mighty love inspired this sweet oriental fragrance. It is topped with vanilla, bergamot, cardamom and rose. When you doubt your love for yourself, this perfume kisses and hugs you and reminds you that you are your own greatest treasure.
One drop, one pearl… so it is with botanical perfumes. Within each small bottle lie many treasures of nature, feelings and time.
Perfumes created exclusively from essential oils and other natural elements are unique, they are 'aromaterapeutic'. Martina invites you to choose the beauty of the right scent for the right moment. Because with their power, you choose your best self.
If you are a graduate of NPA and creating natural perfumes professionally get in touch with us and share your journey and see your name in NPA Hall of Fame.
Myrrh, frankincense, messer, copaiba, elemi camonya, palo santo, salvia apiana, gowe-thiouraye, borena
Photo is of various delectable incense ingredients: myrrh, frankincense, messer, copaiba, elemi camonya, palo santo, salvia apiana, gowe -thiouraye, borena
O foco de sexta-feira desta semana é a Perfumista natural profissional e qualificada pela NPA, Giselle Maletta Marra
KYPHI
Os aromas da minha vida
A perfumaria chegou à minha vida de maneira sutil e despretensiosa, como um resgate de alma. Fiz um, dois, três cursos de perfumaria natural, mas ainda não achava o suficiente, precisava buscar a origem daquilo que tanto me encantava. Foi então que encontrei a “Natural Perfume Academy” por meio da perfumista Ane Wash, a quem eu honro e agradeço por me inspirar e me orientar com todo seu amor nesta jornada perfumada.
Neste caminho de descobertas, veio o reaprender a sentir os cheiros de maneira consciente, de analisar e anotar tudo que vinha à mente nas páginas do meu “Diário do Perfume”. Ao abrir cada vidrinho de óleos essenciais, um mundo mágico se revelava em uma sinfonia aromática entre notas e acordes que bailavam perfumando as memórias de estar nesta vivência, em êxtase! Nesta viagem olfativa, um a um dos compartimentos do meu sistema límbico se abriam, despertando meus sentidos e as memórias de quem eu sou. Neste processo de investigação dos perfumes e de mim mesma, um universo de inúmeras possibilidades foi se manifestando para mim. Não poderia imaginar a grandiosidade e complexidade que é a arte da perfumaria. Estudar sua história ancestral - desde a alquimia - me instigou a investigar o caminho que o perfume percorreu desde os primórdios da civilização, quando os homens queimavam plantas aromáticas como oferenda aos deuses até chegar ao Antigo Egito, onde o perfume era considerado um sacerdócio, usado em rituais sagrados para se conectar ao divino.
Este perfume era conhecido como Kyphi, o perfume dos deuses, um incenso considerado sagrado e medicinal pelos antigos egípcios que deu origem aos primeiros perfumes da humanidade. Não pensei duas vezes e me aventurei na jornada do Kyphi, conduzida pela mestra dos perfumes, Justine Crane. Fazer este incenso foi como um processo iniciático na perfumaria botânica. Para realizar este incenso, é preciso seguir uma formula que está descrita nas pedras do Templo Edfu.
Nela, consta que cada matéria-prima precisa ser trabalhada em um dia. Sendo 16 plantas medicinais ancestrais, cada uma com sua explosão de aromas, bálsamos que se mesclavam entre as descobertas descritas em escrituras sagradas. Conheci as matérias-primas na sua forma mais primordial e as triturei uma a uma manualmente até virar pó. Em seguida, as macerei junto ao vinho em um tacho de cobre para esperar o processo gestacional. A última fase foi dissolver as resinas mirra, olíbano e pinho no mel, um deleite dos deuses para juntar todas as partes, assim como Isis juntou as partes do corpo de seu esposo Osíris. Era como se eu também estivesse reunindo em mim cada parte minha que havia se perdido: paciência, atenção, disciplina e cuidados necessários para renascer e exalar o perfume dos deuses. Durante o preparo deste incenso, cada dia também colocava uma parte de cada matériaprima no álcool. Assim nasceu a “Tintura Mãe Kyphi” para fazer perfumes. Cozinhei a outra parte lentamente em óleos vegetais, deste modo surgiu o “Macerado Kyphi” para unguentos e óleos perfumados.
Fazer o Kyphi foi um processo de revelações, que me inspirou a criar o conceito da minha marca e da minha primeira linha de produtos.
Gosto de dizer que a minha paixão pelos perfumes nasceu comigo. Quando pequena, eu fazia “perfuminhos” para minhas bonecas com as flores da minha mãe, que tem como dom o plantar e o fazer florescer. Cresci envolta pelas plantas dentro da sua flora, a "Orvalho Flora e Artesanato". Foi por lá, na Belo Horizonte da década de 70, que o meu amor pelos aromas floresceu. Adorava estar ali só para sentir o cheiro de jasmim que me fazia lembrar de mim, das rosas com seu cheiro de amor e do alecrim que carrega uma inebriante sensação de alegria!
No final da década de 80, fui estudar medicina chinesa e viajei inúmeras vezes para a China. Meu lugar preferido eram as farmácias tradicionais. Passava horas entre as plantas medicinais e os aromas que exalavam do preparo das sopas terapêuticas, dos óleos medicados, dos bálsamos de flores brancas e dos óleos essenciais que se entrelaçavam com os perfumes das rosas, flores de lótus, jasmins, osmanthus e peônias enormes que coloriam os pátios cinzentos dos “hutongs.” Ainda posso sentir esses cheiros na ponta do meu nariz - isto é incrível!
Na década de 90, me tornei empresária e levei minha expertise para o ensino das terapias integrativas e para o laboratório de plantas medicinais, administrando processos e pessoas até que em 2015, quando me senti atingida por uma crise existencial. Fui buscar apoio na ayurveda e na aromaterapia. Elas me ajudaram a voltar a sentir os cheiros da vida novamente e, com isso, voltei a fazer os meus “perfuminhos” para a alma.
Foi neste processo de investigação pessoal que a alquimia dos perfumes fez o ponto de mutação e de integração entre o meu conhecimento das medicinas ancestrais com a perfumaria botânica. Foi aí que eu senti o meu florescer.
A KYPHI – A Botica do Perfume foi inspirada pela paixão de fazer perfumes como antigamente mesclada com o conceito de perfumaria de atelier: artística e artesanal. Faço perfumes customizados com a história e preferências individuais, com respeito à liberdade de ser e de sentir. Um processo em que histórias, emoções e sentimentos são a minha inspiração para a criação de um perfume com alma.
LINHA KYPHI
Incenso dos deuses – Kyphi Perfume dos deuses Perfume das deusas Unguento dos deuses
Fazer perfumes naturais é a arte de transformar os recursos da natureza em perfumes únicos, é um resgate da perfumaria de atelier associada às técnicas e costumes atuais, com responsabilidade ambiental e sustentabilidade para que essa arte não se perca na história e no tempo.
Gisele Maletta Marra Perfumista Botânica de Atelier Terapeuta Integrativa Administradora de Empresas
Natural Perfumer HALL OF FAME
Da próxima vez
se você é graduado ou graduada pela NPA e está criando perfumes naturais profissionalmente, entre em contato conosco e conte a sua trajetória, assim, você terá seu nome no Hall of Fame, da NPA.
Thank you Gudrun for this amazing 5 star review: "The course is excellent, it's in depth and very comprehensive, since it covers creative as well as scientific topics. This is very important for me as a botanist and scientist. It's a very good opportunity to extensively develop one's intellectual and practical creativity. You are guided by a marvellous expert, Justine. It is amazing how she is always there to explain and help. It is an incredible support she provides all the time. It warmly would recommend this curriculum to everyone who is passionate about nature and scents. Gudrun Hugelshofer, Switzerland"
Online 9 Month Course in Natural Botanical Perfumery
If you are thinking of taking up an online course why not choose something that will not only challenge you but will also stimulate your senses. You never know, you might discover your passion! It is fair to say this course is a major commitment of time and money so it is not to be entered into lightly. If becoming a perfumer is something you always dreamed of or you already work in an area where you are familiar with essential oils or cosmetics this course will add another string to your bow. You will gain the confidence to be able to create a perfume that you can call a work of art. You will learn about safety and about natural materials and how to recognise and blend them together. The course was originally created and is taught by Justine Crane, Master Natural Perfumer with over 25 years of experience under her belt. The course was translated into Portuguese by Teacher and Natural Perfumer Ane Walsh and following that it was translated into Spanish and is taught by Marta Garcia Pons.
"Also known as "false" Indian Valerian Root Oil. It should not be confused with the essential oil of various Ferula Species, an oil which is known under the name of Sumbul Root Oil.
Spikenard Oil is derived from the roots of Nardostachys Jatamansi, a plant of the valerian-aceae. The plant plant grows wild in India (northern mountain regions), China and Japan (also Formosa).
The dried, comminuted root (rhizome and root) is steam distilled in India or Europe or the U.S.A. Unfortunately, there are a number of Nardostachys species and also other plants, not only to the valerian family but also to quite different families which yield roots, sold commercially as "Indian Valerian Root" Consequently, there are different opinions on the odor and flavour of Spikenard Oil. As a general description it can be said that the oil is a pale yellow to amber coloured liquid with a heavy, sweet-woody and spicy-animal odor, reminiscent of valerian, ginger, cardamom, and Atlas cedarwood oils. The flavor is warm-spicy, root-like in sweetness, somewhat pine-wood-like and slightly bitter-burning, powerful.
Spikenard Oil is not regularly produced outside of India and Japan, but when the oil is available, it can be used with advantage in perfumes such as Oriental bases, heavy florals, fougéres, woody bases, animal-ambre types, etc. It blends well with amyl salicylate, cedarwood oil, and its derivatives coumarin, ionones, labdanum products, lavender, oakmoss products, patchouli oil, pine needle oil, vetiver oil etc. In flavors, it can be used as a modifier for valerian, hop, ginger, calamus, cardamom, etc. and it's warm and rich body will help rounding off the sharp notes from chemical additives in the flavor composition.
The oil has been used as a substitute for Valerian Oil, but the reverse case has also occurred since Spikenard Oil is now a scarce oil. Adulteration takes place frequently with additives such as borneol, patchouli oil, isobornyl valerianate, terpinyl valerianate, eugenol, cajeput oil etc." Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Monograph 591
According to the Ayurvedic system of India, Spikenard Roots were dried in the sun and then soaked with ghee before being smoked like a cigarette to relieve asthma (Mishra 2003). In the Sikkim Himalayas of India, the roots were burned as incense to drive away evil spirits (Pandey 1991). In the Manang District of Nepal, Spikenard was highly esteemed as incense because it did not grow near human habitations and therefore was not contaminated in any way (Pohle 1990).
The roots and rhizomes of Nardostachys Jatamansi have been used to treat epilepsy, hysteria, heart conditions, syncope and mental weakness. Spikenard Oil shows pharmacological activity including antimicrobial, antifungal, hypotensive, antiarrhythmic and anticonvulsant activity. The active components of this plant include sesquiterpene, jatamansone, nardostachone. Spikenard has also been mentioned in the Bible that Mary uses a pound of pure Jatamansi to anoint Jesus's feet. "Then Mary took about a pint of pure nard, an expensive perfume; she poured it on Jesus' feet and wiped his feet with her hair. And the house was filled with the fragrance of the perfume."
Wholeness is about embracing complexities, taking the rough with the smooth. In the realm of natural perfumery, this means recognising that certain notes in natural essences might initially seem like a not that you might not want in a perfume. I remember the first time I worked with rose absolute and essential oil; it was a revelation. While rose possesses beautiful, delicate, rosy notes, it also has dense, waxy, or even sharp undertones. Some rose essences carry indolic, heavy notes that can overshadow the more delicate floral characteristics of real roses.
As a natural perfumer, learning to work with the entirety of natural essences is essential. This requires acceptance, imagination, and a significant amount of time, experimentation, and effort. I've found that a high-quality synthetic rose essence may offer clarity and vibrant, light, delicate rosy notes by stripping away the 'unwanted' aspects. However, it lacks the complexity, mystery, and, most importantly, the wholeness found in natural essences.
A skilled natural perfumer knows how to work with these materials, blending them with other whole essences. Understanding what an essence needs to bring out its best qualities and how to neutralize or balance heavier notes is key.
Wholeness speaks to us in volumes, transcending mere words. As natural perfumers, we are working with nature's masterpieces rather than isolated pigments, performing with Mother Earth's symphonies instead of picking separate notes. This approach allows us to create fragrances that are rich, complex, and truly reflective of the natural world.
Passion, life and breath, they go together.
Passion is a force that comes from the heart into the breath.
It is raw emotion finding a release through life.
Without passion there is no art.
Through emotion, imagination and passion, the perfumer breathes life into their raw materials.
The perfumer pours themselves into their creations.
Leaving fear behind, leaving control behind a perfumer becomes wild, poking at the unexpected, creating chaos to find perfection.
In passion a perfumer loses themselves in their work and have no fear of dancing to their own tune.
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