What are Horizontal Accords and Vertical Accords, how to create them. What are enhancing extending notes in terms of accords and horizontal and vertical studies. Horizontal trials and vertical trials and how to build enhancing, core, and extending notes, and combine them to create an accord.
A little snippet of natural perfumery information by Justine Crane, how to build accords in natural perfumery (my favourite subject)!
If you like this video please like and comment *on Youtube* as well and consider subscribing to our channel if you haven't already. *Commenting and liking the video on Youtube helps the most though Thank you!
We find that the need for adaptable facilities for natural perfumery training growing due to the fact that in the increasingly restrictive environment, independent natural perfumers need tailor-made training geared towards regulatory compliance and safety. It is also the case that apprenticeships in perfumery involving the sole use of natural materials are difficult if not impossible to secure. Traveling long distances to attend courses is highly impractical and these days unnecessary. Furthermore in light of the worldwide expansion of the natural botanical perfume industry there are increasing demands that natural perfumers be capable and highly trained.
• Evaluate the odors of naturally aromatic botanical essences. • Set production safety standards and ensure they are adhered to. • Source or produce ethical pure botanicals and review production data in order to ensure that they comply with standards. • Determine the quality of prepared materials by visiting compounding and distillation areas. • Evaluating perfume blends for specific characteristics, such as odor, body, harmony, strength, and permanence. • Smell and evaluate trials from the previous days. • Reject batches that do not meet criteria and record. • Approve batches for finishing, sign off and record. • Assign priority levels based on the type of project and meet deadlines. • Adjust formulas of samples needing improvement based on earlier evaluations and briefings. • Meet with clients or team evaluators; discuss which samples are ready and which need more work.
Broaden your creative educational horizons through our 9 Month CPD Certified Diploma Course in Natural Perfumery opens 15 March 2023 For more information please visit the following links.
THE DEADLINE FOR APPLICATIONS to CPD Certified Diploma Course in Natural & Botanical Perfumery is the 30TH SEPTEMBER 2022
First Topic covers the History of Natural Perfumery
It covers perfume’s use through history and cultures up to the modern era of synthetic perfumery; including how perfume affected culture.
Topic Two Covers Safety
The highlights of this topic are safety precautions and resources for fragrance safety regulations.
The Third Topic covers the Chemistry of Natural Materials
The highlights of this topic are creating a Faux Carnation note and learning about scents, the brain, smells & memory.
The Fourth Topic Covers the Perfumers Studio & Resources
The highlights of this unit are how to grow a garden for perfumery and getting set up in your 'studio'.
Topic Five Covers Natural Raw Materials
The highlights of this unit are learning about the various types of notes and how to classify those notes within a composition.
Topic Six Covers Evaluating Raw Materials
The highlights of this topic are learning about dilutions and how to evaluate your natural perfumery materials and how to determine their uses in a perfume formulation.
Topic Seven Covers The Perfumers Stillroom
The highlights of this topic are learning how to create extractions using enfleurage and tinctures.
Topic Eight Covers Journaling
The highlight of this topic is Justine's perfume cookbook crammed with perfume recipes.
Topic Nine Covers A study in Fragrance Families
The highlights of this topic are getting into depth with the fragrance families, and learning how to recognise, create and discover your own favourites.
Topic Ten Covers Perfume Formulation
The highlights of this topic are learning the many different natural perfume methods, getting into and developing your own style as a perfumer and how to create custom perfume.
Topic Eleven Covers Branding and Packaging
The highlights of this topic are getting to bounce ideas off your teacher, and get feedback. At this stage in the course most students have built up significant rapport with their teacher. This is where the real magic begins to happen as you are guided through to the final topic.
Topic 12 Covers Finals
The highlights of this topic are writing your essay to accompany your final submission and getting your evaluation and certificate. Your teacher, Justine or Ane evaluate your submission and send you written feedback. This is the stage where your teacher becomes your true mentor and you begin to truly feel like a perfumers apprentice.
For more information please visit the following links.
The best thing you can do while training in perfumery is to experience as many smells as possible and build up your vocabulary. Take notes. Buy as many samples from good reputable suppliers as possible to know what the "real thing" smells like.
Take notes, smell, take notes, smell. Create small things.
Compose simple pieces. Explore each individual material in great depth. Explore different dilutions, explore different plant varieties, and from different countries. Travel and obtain raw materials from the source. (But always have knowledge before setting off of what the genuine article smells like. Bring a small amount with you to compare.) Bring your notebook and a small comparisons library with you everywhere.
Grow fragrant plants. Do your own extractions. Make all different kinds of extractions. Record everything.
Build up your library, learn about how to store your materials and clean your equipment. Invest in base and middle note materials. Don't spend more on top notes materials (generally speaking) than you will use in 6 months.
Practice Practice Practice.
To find our more about courses running on The Natural Perfume Academy please visit the following links
Open date for our next course is the 7th September 2022
And together with this velvety scent, we reach and transcend all the boundaries of this world.
LEARN CREATE INSPIRE
This week's Friday Spotlight Feature is NPA Qualified &
Professional Natural Perfumer
Martina Vatovec
Bio
Martina Vatovec, boutique perfumer with avant-garde concepts from Koper, Slovenia. Martina is a woman who lives in close contact with nature. She draws inspiration for life from nature, and nature’s colors and essences can be felt in her perfumes. After a sweet confectionery career, she found herself in the world of fragrances. She likes to use familiar scents that connect us with life experiences and the beauty of nature.
She seeks inspiration in minimally processed materials, small and sustainable production and the alchemical creation of perfumes.
She transmits positive feelings into the scents themselves and is happy to share the emotions she first experienced when I ventured into the world of creating botanical perfumes.
Martina’s perfumes are thoughtfully made from quality natural materials. Natural plant materials are carefully and ethically obtained and then selected and blended into noble balanced blends.
“At first I studied aromatherapy, then I found natural perfumery and I simply fell in love with it. I studied in Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, France, Israel and now with NPA. I have to say that I love The Natural Perfume Academy. You can work on your own time, not pressure, but a lot of inspiration.
Thank you for giving me the kick I needed to put my perfumes out in the world.”
Creations
MARTINA Botanical Perfumes comprises three 'aromatherapeutic' perfumes, which, in addition to smelling nice, also affect the emotions and create harmony of body and mind. With the right choice of essential oils we can find the way to well-being. Smell reaches the subconscious and affects emotions. Because the path from smell perception (nasal cavity) to the brain, where we process smell, is so short that we may not be able to control what is happening with our thoughts.
I SPREAD... JOY brings joy, concentration, tenderness and playfulness. Mandarin, sweet and bitter orange are the top notes of the perfume that evoke inner peace and serenity.
I FEEL… WOMAN is a perfume that emphasizes femininity. A floral perfume with the scent of roses, geraniums, rosewood and sandalwood will wrap women in charming and seductive fragrances and accentuate their elegance.
I LOVE... MYSELF brings the message that everything comes from love. What is so important are the feelings of love that we cultivate towards ourselves. If we love ourselves, we can love the whole world. Mighty love inspired this sweet oriental fragrance. It is topped with vanilla, bergamot, cardamom and rose. When you doubt your love for yourself, this perfume kisses and hugs you and reminds you that you are your own greatest treasure.
One drop, one pearl… so it is with botanical perfumes. Within each small bottle lie many treasures of nature, feelings and time.
Perfumes created exclusively from essential oils and other natural elements are unique, they are 'aromaterapeutic'. Martina invites you to choose the beauty of the right scent for the right moment. Because with their power, you choose your best self.
If you are a graduate of NPA and creating natural perfumes professionally get in touch with us and share your journey and see your name in NPA Hall of Fame.
O foco de sexta-feira desta semana é a Perfumista natural profissional e qualificada pela NPA, Giselle Maletta Marra
KYPHI
Os aromas da minha vida
A perfumaria chegou à minha vida de maneira sutil e despretensiosa, como um resgate de alma. Fiz um, dois, três cursos de perfumaria natural, mas ainda não achava o suficiente, precisava buscar a origem daquilo que tanto me encantava. Foi então que encontrei a “Natural Perfume Academy” por meio da perfumista Ane Wash, a quem eu honro e agradeço por me inspirar e me orientar com todo seu amor nesta jornada perfumada.
Neste caminho de descobertas, veio o reaprender a sentir os cheiros de maneira consciente, de analisar e anotar tudo que vinha à mente nas páginas do meu “Diário do Perfume”. Ao abrir cada vidrinho de óleos essenciais, um mundo mágico se revelava em uma sinfonia aromática entre notas e acordes que bailavam perfumando as memórias de estar nesta vivência, em êxtase! Nesta viagem olfativa, um a um dos compartimentos do meu sistema límbico se abriam, despertando meus sentidos e as memórias de quem eu sou. Neste processo de investigação dos perfumes e de mim mesma, um universo de inúmeras possibilidades foi se manifestando para mim. Não poderia imaginar a grandiosidade e complexidade que é a arte da perfumaria. Estudar sua história ancestral - desde a alquimia - me instigou a investigar o caminho que o perfume percorreu desde os primórdios da civilização, quando os homens queimavam plantas aromáticas como oferenda aos deuses até chegar ao Antigo Egito, onde o perfume era considerado um sacerdócio, usado em rituais sagrados para se conectar ao divino.
Este perfume era conhecido como Kyphi, o perfume dos deuses, um incenso considerado sagrado e medicinal pelos antigos egípcios que deu origem aos primeiros perfumes da humanidade. Não pensei duas vezes e me aventurei na jornada do Kyphi, conduzida pela mestra dos perfumes, Justine Crane. Fazer este incenso foi como um processo iniciático na perfumaria botânica. Para realizar este incenso, é preciso seguir uma formula que está descrita nas pedras do Templo Edfu.
Nela, consta que cada matéria-prima precisa ser trabalhada em um dia. Sendo 16 plantas medicinais ancestrais, cada uma com sua explosão de aromas, bálsamos que se mesclavam entre as descobertas descritas em escrituras sagradas. Conheci as matérias-primas na sua forma mais primordial e as triturei uma a uma manualmente até virar pó. Em seguida, as macerei junto ao vinho em um tacho de cobre para esperar o processo gestacional. A última fase foi dissolver as resinas mirra, olíbano e pinho no mel, um deleite dos deuses para juntar todas as partes, assim como Isis juntou as partes do corpo de seu esposo Osíris. Era como se eu também estivesse reunindo em mim cada parte minha que havia se perdido: paciência, atenção, disciplina e cuidados necessários para renascer e exalar o perfume dos deuses. Durante o preparo deste incenso, cada dia também colocava uma parte de cada matériaprima no álcool. Assim nasceu a “Tintura Mãe Kyphi” para fazer perfumes. Cozinhei a outra parte lentamente em óleos vegetais, deste modo surgiu o “Macerado Kyphi” para unguentos e óleos perfumados.
Fazer o Kyphi foi um processo de revelações, que me inspirou a criar o conceito da minha marca e da minha primeira linha de produtos.
Gosto de dizer que a minha paixão pelos perfumes nasceu comigo. Quando pequena, eu fazia “perfuminhos” para minhas bonecas com as flores da minha mãe, que tem como dom o plantar e o fazer florescer. Cresci envolta pelas plantas dentro da sua flora, a "Orvalho Flora e Artesanato". Foi por lá, na Belo Horizonte da década de 70, que o meu amor pelos aromas floresceu. Adorava estar ali só para sentir o cheiro de jasmim que me fazia lembrar de mim, das rosas com seu cheiro de amor e do alecrim que carrega uma inebriante sensação de alegria!
No final da década de 80, fui estudar medicina chinesa e viajei inúmeras vezes para a China. Meu lugar preferido eram as farmácias tradicionais. Passava horas entre as plantas medicinais e os aromas que exalavam do preparo das sopas terapêuticas, dos óleos medicados, dos bálsamos de flores brancas e dos óleos essenciais que se entrelaçavam com os perfumes das rosas, flores de lótus, jasmins, osmanthus e peônias enormes que coloriam os pátios cinzentos dos “hutongs.” Ainda posso sentir esses cheiros na ponta do meu nariz - isto é incrível!
Na década de 90, me tornei empresária e levei minha expertise para o ensino das terapias integrativas e para o laboratório de plantas medicinais, administrando processos e pessoas até que em 2015, quando me senti atingida por uma crise existencial. Fui buscar apoio na ayurveda e na aromaterapia. Elas me ajudaram a voltar a sentir os cheiros da vida novamente e, com isso, voltei a fazer os meus “perfuminhos” para a alma.
Foi neste processo de investigação pessoal que a alquimia dos perfumes fez o ponto de mutação e de integração entre o meu conhecimento das medicinas ancestrais com a perfumaria botânica. Foi aí que eu senti o meu florescer.
A KYPHI – A Botica do Perfume foi inspirada pela paixão de fazer perfumes como antigamente mesclada com o conceito de perfumaria de atelier: artística e artesanal. Faço perfumes customizados com a história e preferências individuais, com respeito à liberdade de ser e de sentir. Um processo em que histórias, emoções e sentimentos são a minha inspiração para a criação de um perfume com alma.
LINHA KYPHI
Incenso dos deuses – Kyphi Perfume dos deuses Perfume das deusas Unguento dos deuses
Fazer perfumes naturais é a arte de transformar os recursos da natureza em perfumes únicos, é um resgate da perfumaria de atelier associada às técnicas e costumes atuais, com responsabilidade ambiental e sustentabilidade para que essa arte não se perca na história e no tempo.
Gisele Maletta Marra Perfumista Botânica de Atelier Terapeuta Integrativa Administradora de Empresas
Natural Perfumer HALL OF FAME
Da próxima vez
se você é graduado ou graduada pela NPA e está criando perfumes naturais profissionalmente, entre em contato conosco e conte a sua trajetória, assim, você terá seu nome no Hall of Fame, da NPA.
Thank you Gudrun for this amazing 5 star review: "The course is excellent, it's in depth and very comprehensive, since it covers creative as well as scientific topics. This is very important for me as a botanist and scientist. It's a very good opportunity to extensively develop one's intellectual and practical creativity. You are guided by a marvellous expert, Justine. It is amazing how she is always there to explain and help. It is an incredible support she provides all the time. It warmly would recommend this curriculum to everyone who is passionate about nature and scents. Gudrun Hugelshofer, Switzerland"
Course open date: 22nd September 2021
Now accepting applications.
Available through English, Portuguese and Spanish.
Online 9 Month Course in Natural Botanical Perfumery
If you are thinking of taking up an online course why not choose something that will not only challenge you but will also stimulate your senses. You never know, you might discover your passion! It is fair to say this course is a major commitment of time and money so it is not to be entered into lightly. If becoming a perfumer is something you always dreamed of or you already work in an area where you are familiar with essential oils or cosmetics this course will add another string to your bow. You will gain the confidence to be able to create a perfume that you can call a work of art. You will learn about safety and about natural materials and how to recognise and blend them together. The course was originally created and is taught by Justine Crane, Master Natural Perfumer with over 25 years of experience under her belt. The course was translated into Portuguese by Teacher and Natural Perfumer Ane Walsh and following that it was translated into Spanish and is taught by Marta Garcia Pons.
The closing date for joining this course is the 31st of March.
"Also known as "false" Indian Valerian Root Oil. It should not be confused with the essential oil of various Ferula Species, an oil which is known under the name of Sumbul Root Oil.
Spikenard Oil is derived from the roots of Nardostachys Jatamansi, a plant of the valerian-aceae. The plant plant grows wild in India (northern mountain regions), China and Japan (also Formosa).
The dried, comminuted root (rhizome and root) is steam distilled in India or Europe or the U.S.A. Unfortunately, there are a number of Nardostachys species and also other plants, not only to the valerian family but also to quite different families which yield roots, sold commercially as "Indian Valerian Root" Consequently, there are different opinions on the odor and flavour of Spikenard Oil. As a general description it can be said that the oil is a pale yellow to amber coloured liquid with a heavy, sweet-woody and spicy-animal odor, reminiscent of valerian, ginger, cardamom, and Atlas cedarwood oils. The flavor is warm-spicy, root-like in sweetness, somewhat pine-wood-like and slightly bitter-burning, powerful.
Spikenard Oil is not regularly produced outside of India and Japan, but when the oil is available, it can be used with advantage in perfumes such as Oriental bases, heavy florals, fougéres, woody bases, animal-ambre types, etc. It blends well with amyl salicylate, cedarwood oil, and its derivatives coumarin, ionones, labdanum products, lavender, oakmoss products, patchouli oil, pine needle oil, vetiver oil etc. In flavors, it can be used as a modifier for valerian, hop, ginger, calamus, cardamom, etc. and it's warm and rich body will help rounding off the sharp notes from chemical additives in the flavor composition.
The oil has been used as a substitute for Valerian Oil, but the reverse case has also occurred since Spikenard Oil is now a scarce oil. Adulteration takes place frequently with additives such as borneol, patchouli oil, isobornyl valerianate, terpinyl valerianate, eugenol, cajeput oil etc." Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Monograph 591
According to the Ayurvedic system of India, Spikenard Roots were dried in the sun and then soaked with ghee before being smoked like a cigarette to relieve asthma (Mishra 2003). In the Sikkim Himalayas of India, the roots were burned as incense to drive away evil spirits (Pandey 1991). In the Manang District of Nepal, Spikenard was highly esteemed as incense because it did not grow near human habitations and therefore was not contaminated in any way (Pohle 1990).
The roots and rhizomes of Nardostachys Jatamansi have been used to treat epilepsy, hysteria, heart conditions, syncope and mental weakness. Spikenard Oil shows pharmacological activity including antimicrobial, antifungal, hypotensive, antiarrhythmic and anticonvulsant activity. The active components of this plant include sesquiterpene, jatamansone, nardostachone. Spikenard has also been mentioned in the Bible that Mary uses a pound of pure Jatamansi to anoint Jesus's feet. "Then Mary took about a pint of pure nard, an expensive perfume; she poured it on Jesus' feet and wiped his feet with her hair. And the house was filled with the fragrance of the perfume."
Thank you! 
).png)
.jpeg)
