Spikenard Oil

"Also known as "false" Indian Valerian Root Oil. It should not be confused with the essential oil of various Ferula Species, an oil which is known under the name of Sumbul Root Oil. 

Spikenard Oil is derived from the roots of Nardostachys Jatamansi, a plant of the valerian-aceae. The plant plant grows wild in India (northern mountain regions), China and Japan (also Formosa).

The dried, comminuted root (rhizome and root) is steam distilled in India or Europe or the U.S.A. Unfortunately, there are a number of Nardostachys species and also other plants, not only to the valerian family but also to quite different families which yield roots, sold commercially as "Indian Valerian Root" Consequently, there are different opinions on the odor and flavour of Spikenard Oil. As a general description it can be said that the oil is a pale yellow to amber coloured liquid with a heavy, sweet-woody and spicy-animal odor, reminiscent of valerian, ginger, cardamom, and Atlas cedarwood oils. The flavor is warm-spicy, root-like in sweetness, somewhat pine-wood-like and slightly bitter-burning, powerful. 

Spikenard Oil is not regularly produced outside of India and Japan, but when the oil is available, it can be used with advantage in perfumes such as Oriental bases, heavy florals, fougéres, woody bases, animal-ambre types, etc. It blends well with amyl salicylate, cedarwood oil, and its derivatives coumarin, ionones, labdanum products, lavender, oakmoss products, patchouli oil, pine needle oil, vetiver oil etc. In flavors, it can be used as a modifier for valerian, hop, ginger, calamus, cardamom, etc. and it's warm and rich body will help rounding off the sharp notes from chemical additives in the flavor composition. 

The oil has been used as a substitute for Valerian Oil, but the reverse case has also occurred since Spikenard Oil is now a scarce oil. Adulteration takes place frequently with additives such as borneol, patchouli oil, isobornyl valerianate, terpinyl valerianate, eugenol, cajeput oil etc." Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Monograph 591 

According to the Ayurvedic system of India, Spikenard Roots were dried in the sun and then soaked with ghee before being smoked like a cigarette to relieve asthma (Mishra 2003). In the Sikkim Himalayas of India, the roots were burned as incense to drive away evil spirits (Pandey 1991). In the Manang District of Nepal, Spikenard was highly esteemed as incense because it did not grow near human habitations and therefore was not contaminated in any way (Pohle 1990). 

The roots and rhizomes of Nardostachys Jatamansi have been used to treat epilepsy, hysteria, heart conditions, syncope and mental weakness. Spikenard Oil shows pharmacological activity including antimicrobial, antifungal, hypotensive, antiarrhythmic and anticonvulsant activity. The active components of this plant include sesquiterpene, jatamansone, nardostachone.
Spikenard has also been mentioned in the Bible that Mary uses a pound of pure Jatamansi to anoint Jesus's feet. "Then Mary took about a pint of pure nard, an expensive perfume; she poured it on Jesus' feet and wiped his feet with her hair. And the house was filled with the fragrance of the perfume."

About the Wholeness of Natural Perfumery

Embracing Wholeness in Natural Perfumery

Wholeness is about embracing complexities, taking the rough with the smooth. In the realm of natural perfumery, this means recognising that certain notes in natural essences might initially seem like a not that you might not want in a perfume. I remember the first time I worked with rose absolute and essential oil; it was a revelation. While rose possesses beautiful, delicate, rosy notes, it also has dense, waxy, or even sharp undertones. Some rose essences carry indolic, heavy notes that can overshadow the more delicate floral characteristics of real roses.

As a natural perfumer, learning to work with the entirety of natural essences is essential. This requires acceptance, imagination, and a significant amount of time, experimentation, and effort. I've found that a high-quality synthetic rose essence may offer clarity and vibrant, light, delicate rosy notes by stripping away the 'unwanted' aspects. However, it lacks the complexity, mystery, and, most importantly, the wholeness found in natural essences.

A skilled natural perfumer knows how to work with these materials, blending them with other whole essences. Understanding what an essence needs to bring out its best qualities and how to neutralize or balance heavier notes is key.

Wholeness speaks to us in volumes, transcending mere words. As natural perfumers, we are working with nature's masterpieces rather than isolated pigments, performing with Mother Earth's symphonies instead of picking separate notes. This approach allows us to create fragrances that are rich, complex, and truly reflective of the natural world.

The Passion of Natural Perfumery

Passion, life and breath, they go together.
Passion is a force that comes from the heart into the breath.
It is raw emotion finding a release through life.
Without passion there is no art.
Through emotion, imagination and passion, the perfumer breathes life into their raw materials.
The perfumer pours themselves into their creations.
Leaving fear behind, leaving control behind a perfumer becomes wild, poking at the unexpected, creating chaos to find perfection.
In passion a perfumer loses themselves in their work and have no fear of dancing to their own tune.