Spikenard Oil

"Also known as "false" Indian Valerian Root Oil. It should not be confused with the essential oil of various Ferula Species, an oil which is known under the name of Sumbul Root Oil. 

Spikenard Oil is derived from the roots of Nardostachys Jatamansi, a plant of the valerian-aceae. The plant plant grows wild in India (northern mountain regions), China and Japan (also Formosa).

The dried, comminuted root (rhizome and root) is steam distilled in India or Europe or the U.S.A. Unfortunately, there are a number of Nardostachys species and also other plants, not only to the valerian family but also to quite different families which yield roots, sold commercially as "Indian Valerian Root" Consequently, there are different opinions on the odor and flavour of Spikenard Oil. As a general description it can be said that the oil is a pale yellow to amber coloured liquid with a heavy, sweet-woody and spicy-animal odor, reminiscent of valerian, ginger, cardamom, and Atlas cedarwood oils. The flavor is warm-spicy, root-like in sweetness, somewhat pine-wood-like and slightly bitter-burning, powerful. 

Spikenard Oil is not regularly produced outside of India and Japan, but when the oil is available, it can be used with advantage in perfumes such as Oriental bases, heavy florals, fougéres, woody bases, animal-ambre types, etc. It blends well with amyl salicylate, cedarwood oil, and its derivatives coumarin, ionones, labdanum products, lavender, oakmoss products, patchouli oil, pine needle oil, vetiver oil etc. In flavors, it can be used as a modifier for valerian, hop, ginger, calamus, cardamom, etc. and it's warm and rich body will help rounding off the sharp notes from chemical additives in the flavor composition. 

The oil has been used as a substitute for Valerian Oil, but the reverse case has also occurred since Spikenard Oil is now a scarce oil. Adulteration takes place frequently with additives such as borneol, patchouli oil, isobornyl valerianate, terpinyl valerianate, eugenol, cajeput oil etc." Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Monograph 591 

According to the Ayurvedic system of India, Spikenard Roots were dried in the sun and then soaked with ghee before being smoked like a cigarette to relieve asthma (Mishra 2003). In the Sikkim Himalayas of India, the roots were burned as incense to drive away evil spirits (Pandey 1991). In the Manang District of Nepal, Spikenard was highly esteemed as incense because it did not grow near human habitations and therefore was not contaminated in any way (Pohle 1990). 

The roots and rhizomes of Nardostachys Jatamansi have been used to treat epilepsy, hysteria, heart conditions, syncope and mental weakness. Spikenard Oil shows pharmacological activity including antimicrobial, antifungal, hypotensive, antiarrhythmic and anticonvulsant activity. The active components of this plant include sesquiterpene, jatamansone, nardostachone.
Spikenard has also been mentioned in the Bible that Mary uses a pound of pure Jatamansi to anoint Jesus's feet. "Then Mary took about a pint of pure nard, an expensive perfume; she poured it on Jesus' feet and wiped his feet with her hair. And the house was filled with the fragrance of the perfume."

About the Wholeness of Natural Perfumery

Wholeness is about complexities. It's about taking the rough with the smooth. When using natural essences in perfumery it sometimes happens that there are certain notes that we might think we could very well do without. Rose essence in it's whole natural form possesses beautiful delicate rosy notes but it can also have notes that smell dense, or waxy, or sometimes even sharp. Some rose essences can have indolic, heavy notes. The same heaviness can sometimes prevent the more delicate floral notes characteristic of real roses from shining through.

As a natural perfumer it is important to learn how to work with the wholeness of natural essences. This takes acceptance and imagination as well as a great deal of time, experimentation and work. A good quality synthetic rose essence has a clarity, and as if the 'unwanted' notes are stripped away it is vibrant, light, delicate rosy. However it lacked complexity, mystery and most of all wholeness.

With skill the natural perfumer can work with their materials, blending them with other whole essences. A good perfumer will know what an essence needs to bring out it's best qualities and what to use to neutralize or balance heavier notes.

Wholeness speaks to us in volumes rather than in words. We are working with nature's masterpieces rather than individual pigments. We are performing using mother earth's symphonies instead picking separate notes.

The Passion of Natural Perfumery

Passion, life and breath, they go together.
Passion is a force that comes from the heart into the breath.
It is raw emotion finding a release through life.
Without passion there is no art.
Through emotion, imagination and passion, the perfumer breathes life into their raw materials.
The perfumer pours themselves into their creations.
Leaving fear behind, leaving control behind a perfumer becomes wild, poking at the unexpected, creating chaos to find perfection.
In passion a perfumer loses themselves in their work and have no fear of dancing to their own tune.